Hazrat Nizamuddin Dargah

Things to do & see in Delhi before you die.

First in this series is Hazrat Nizamuddin Dargah, the shrine of the 14th century sufi saint.

Located at basti of the same name (Nizamuddin Basti), the Dargah is only accessible through narrow bylanes. In case you are coming here by car then park it on Mathura Road, next to Nizamuddin police station, and take a short walk. Normally crowded Basti streets are empty in the early morning.

Inside, candles are burning on a few unknown tombs jutting out from the floor. A pilgrim is sitting in meditative contemplation. The door to Hazrat Nizamuddin’s tomb is already open for the day. Sneak in to take a look (if you are a woman, peek through the stone jaalis for you will not be allowed in). Fresh roses are placed on the saint’s grave.

Built in the same courtyard and period, the Jamatkhana mosque, a few steps left to the Dargah, has a dozen odd people praying in front of its Western wall. Maybe it’s the pre-dawn darkness, or the moment’s sanctity, or the building’s historical worth or a mix of all, but the sights and sounds feel as illusionary as an early morning dream.

And when, the black sky above the Dargah’s Dome change to pale blue, the Dargah’s dome looks as heartbreakingly beautiful as my lover’s teardrop.